The next day we arrive at where the boat was to pick us up. we loaded the stuff and drove off. the first break we surfed was Airport left, we surfed it for a couple of minutes because it was very crowded and not much fun. We passed the airport and took a few shots of planes landing right over us. The sound was intense. The break we surfed after was Balangan. i was so keen to getting in the water but Denise was complaining on how crowded it was. Without hesitate i put on my surf shirt, grabbed my board and jumped in the water. i paddled out to the line up. This wave come's in i start paddling and i take off. it was a nice long left and took me all the way down down the beach till it closed out. I started paddling back and this huge set, i would say about 8-10ft wave came out of no where and just broke right on top of me, i ended up in the washing machine. I got up and i see another huge wave come, i try duck under the wave with my board but the wave still caught me. I got back up from the water and paddled like mad all the way to where i was before. After a few minutes i took another wave and went back to the boat. I told my parents about the whole thing, the waves were pretty good though.
We were passing the cliff face of Balangan with the boat and were on our way to Bingin, just passing the cliff and me and Denise see this big animal pop out of the water and we both shouted and everyone turned around. The animal popped his head out and dives back into the water splashing his tail as he went down. We were all trying to figure out what kind of animal it was. Our boat captain told us that that was a Dudgeon which belongs to the whale family.
We decided to skip impossibles and bingin and head on to Padang Padang to eat there and surf for a couple of ours. We parked the boat on the beach, i ran to my bag, put some sunscreen on, put on my surfing shirt, grabbed my board and paddled out to the break, surprisingly is was not as crowded as i expected. Normally Padang is very crowded with beginners when its small. But it was pretty small. I ended up surfing there for 2 hours straight. I got out of the water and everyone was already packing up ready to go back on the boat. Our captain was sleeping on the boat which as parked further out in the water, so they send me to go get them. We all got on the boat and headed for Uluwatu.
We arrived at Uluwatu and it was big. Uluwatu was about 8ft, that day was a big day in general, but uluwatu was pumping, every 10-15 minutes this huge wave would come, i would say it was about 10-12 ft. I did not dare to go out there but i still had the feeling that i wanted to. my parents did not let me go because it was to dangerous for me. Although Denise and my dad go went out together. I saw them take some nice waves, especially my dad, i also saw him get into a horrible wipeout. Denise the menace only took one wave, but it was a small one compared to what the others and my dad were taking.
They came back and got on the boat and we took off going back home. We decide to hit airport left again for our last surf because it was getting late. We arrived at airport left and i was the only one going in because Denise and my dad were to cold and they wanted to stay on the boat. I took a couple waves. It was getting a bit late so i decided to take one more wave. I took the big set which rolled in and i swear i wish i hadn't. I had a wipeout like no other wipeout i had ever experienced before. I took of and i saw the wave barreling and i tucked in and the whole wave ended up closing on me. I went upside down ,inside out, i even touched the reef and scratched my leg, had 2 deep cuts down the back of my right leg. I paddled over to the boat in state of shock. As i was approaching the boat i said "thats it for me today".
A couple weeks later my family went to Uluwatu to have lunch. we knew that at uluwatu there are photographers taking pictures of people surfing, so when the surfers are done they can go to the stores and they can look for their picture to see if the photographer had taken a photo of you. My dad decided to go to one of the photography shops to see if they had his picture from a week ago. After about an hour looking for his pic on the computer he finally finds it.
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